"In Africa, you do not view death from the auditorium of life, as a spectator, but from the edge of the stage, waiting only for your cue. You feel perishable, temporary, transient. You feel mortal. Maybe that is why you seem to live more vividly in Africa. The drama of life there is amplified by its constant proximity to death. That's what infuses it with tension. It is the essence of its tragedy too. People love harder there. Love is the way that life forgets that it is terminal. Love is life's alibi in the face of death."
--Peter Godwin

Sunday, March 28, 2010

Swaziland and beyond


Last weekend was adventurous in every sense of the word, as my three other BC classmates placed in South Africa and I joined up and took a trip to Kruger National Park and Swaziland. In between seeing many elephants, getting lost in Swaziland, negotiating our way across the border and 9 hour drives along unpaved roads we had a minorly stressful majorly exciting trip.
I also learned that I truly do love South Africa, and seeing the beautiful countryside and the diversity this country has to offer only furthered my appreciation for my new home. Getting out of the shopping-malls of Johannesburg and seeing the natural beauty made all the difference.
I continue to battle with the various layers of cultural diversity here; which represents the beauty of South Africa's "rainbow nation" and also the years and years of division. As I have read my classmates blogs from around the world, and hear painful stories of female subjugation, I am grateful to be in a country that somewhat endorses gender equality. 
And yet ... in most of the African cultures, gender roles are governed by patriarchy; polygamy is defended (most prominently by the President), rape is rampant, women are coerced into unprotected sex, at times even consenting to "dry sex" where men insist on covering a woman's vagina with herbs, all of these practices furthering the spread of HIV/AIDS. The new post-natal clinic I am setting up will have an emphasis on PMTCT (preventing mother to child transmission), as this seems the most feasible and promising effort to combat the spread of HIV. As a social worker we are repeatedly taught to respect culture. How do I respect culture when "culture" is a scapegoat for such atrocities? These questions remain unanswered for me.
Ari arrives next Saturday (yippee!) and we are spending two weeks to drive down to Cape Town, taking a scenic route that includes the South African wine country, plenty of rural farms (our fav.) and coastal villages. Beautiful pictures to come ...
It will also mark the 3 month mark on my internship here. Almost all of my Global Practice classmates will head back to Boston in May for graduation, which I, sadly, will be missing. However, I continue to feel contentment and fulfillment in my decision to stay longer in South Africa, and have settled on December for my return to the U.S.  
Perhaps the hardest part about being away from home recently has been hearing of my grandpa's losing battle with cancer. Supporting my mom and sister from afar, and wishing desperately that I could be near, is no easy task. I find comfort in knowing that the experience I am having at work, and in life, is unparalleled. Though often challenging, heartbreaking, and difficult, I know this is exactly where I am to be, as I let my environment change and affect me. Two quotes speak to this :

"The familiar life horizon has been outgrown; the old concepts, ideals, and emotional patterns no longer fit; the time for the passing of a threshold is at hand." 
-- Joseph Campbell

"When we get out of the glass bottle of our ego and when we escape like the squirrels in the cage of our personality and get into the forest again, we shall shiver with cold and fright. But things will happen to us so that we don't know ourselves. Cool, unlying life will rush in..." 
-- D.H. Lawrence

Friday, March 5, 2010

Birth


Yesterday I saw my first live birth. I was visiting a hospital near downtown Johannesburg to negotiate referral linkages for the new Post-Natal Clinic when we heard a shout down the corridor. A nurse ran off to attend to the patient in labor, and my co-worker reminded me that I wanted to see a birth and here was my opportunity.
Next thing I knew I had donned scrubs, and was watching a naked woman lying silently (yes, silent, save for a few grunts) on a bed as she delivered a baby girl. I do not consider myself a squeamish person though I must admit, I was feeling quite lightheaded watching this miracle of life and had midwifes and doctors alike shouting at me to "Breathe!" 
All in all it was an amazing experience, and even more amazing was bearing witness to the grit that black South African women have when it comes to childbirth. No pain meds, no partner (or family) standing at her side, no screaming at all. The midwife said she will collect the baby after about 6 hours, hop on a bus and head home. Amazing.

Above is a picture of a visit to a special needs classroom at the primary school next door to the clinic, where I went with a few social workers on Wednesday.